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Primer: Hiding a geocache.

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I want to hide a geocache primer! BaytownBert May 2014

You want to hide a geocache, but you really don’t know how to go about it, right? Okay, here’s what you do.

Understanding the rules: First, I suggest you find a minimum of 50 geocaches before you make the awesome big step of hiding one. (Groundspeak) has very strict rules on where geocaches can be hidden and all of them must be a minimum of 528 feet (.1 miles) away from another cache. Go here, study the rules and then if you are ready, proceed:

Containers: I own over 200 geocaches and over the years I’ve found the single cheapest and best container to be the good old straight-walled pill bottle. There are a number of kinds available, but the orange container with the locking waterproof lid is the best. I usually wrap them in duct tape after attaching a fishing line (monofilament) as a tether and then spray paint them for camouflage.

Paint them gray to make them look like metal, but by all means paint them, or the UV rays will break down the plastic. Pill bottles come in sizes from small to very large. They are classified as Micro unless you can drop a full-size Geocoin or travel bug in them and then you can list them as a Small.
- The more exotic your container, the more prone it is to be broken and need maintenance.
- If you use a large unconventional container, put the logbook and swag inside a gallon freezer bag to protect it from the elements.
- Wash used containers to remove smells which will attract animals.

Log books: I have found there is no real reason to put your logbook in a baggie inside a pill bottle, as it is waterproof. Print log books online and save money also: or or you can always build your own custom logbooks.

Writing cool and descriptive logs on your finds becomes more relevant when people find your cool hide and log them only as “Found” or “TFTC”. In other words, reward the cache owner’s geocache with a good log and set an example for others.

Maintenance: Place your caches where they are easy to maintain. If you place one in a high muggle area, don’t be surprised if it gets muggled. Try to find interesting places to bring a visitor and watch for good parking places or post coordinates so people who are unfamiliar with the area can begin the search.

The bane of geocaching is unmaintained or abandoned caches scattered all over the place. If you hide it, you MUST maintain it and finding 50 will give you an idea how the game is played.

Terrain/Difficulty: Don’t focus on placing high difficulty/terrain caches, at least initially. Many cachers simply will not look for them due to their physical abilities or experience and you will be disappointed that no one is searching for your cool cache.

Unless it is a very high difficulty cache, post a hint. Many cachers won’t look at it until they’ve exhausted all other options. Other less skilled cachers will definitely appreciate the help.

If the cache requires special tools, make sure you use the Special Tools attribute.

Placement: After placing your cache, put the coordinates in Google Earth and make sure it is where you say it is. Remember that 15 feet off cords is still acceptable, but try to get the coordinates as close as possible.

When placing your geocache, ask yourself if you would be uncomfortable finding it there, due to muggles or private property. If the answer is yes, do not place a cache there.

If you place one geocache on a lonely stretch of road, miles from anywhere, don’t be surprised if very few people come looking for it. Create a series of caches out there and they will come and it’s as easy to maintain as a lone cache.

Edited by Baytown Bert

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Posted · Report post

Attributes:   On the page there is a list of attributes you can use that apply to your cache.  I've never found a cache that has none apply to it.  But people avoid this feature like it will bite them.  Break the trend and list attributes on your cache.

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